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March 23, 2007
Varanasi News: Relics of Buddha’s sermons
Arun @ Mar 23, 2007

(We are starting a section of news about Varanasi from this issue).

http://cities.expressindia.com/fullstory.php?newsid=227207

Barely a few kilometres and half an hour drive from Varanasi, Sarnath hardly needs an introduction. And this beautiful place is not just a favourite haunt for those interested in Buddhism, but also for those who want to connect to the glorious past of the country. Our correspondent re-visits this quaint little place to return bathed in history. Tarannum Manjul

This is certainly not a very unknown place, for anyone who knows even a bit about Buddhism must have heard the name of Sarnath.

But knowing about it and visiting the place in reality are two different experiences altogether. And if the visit is just out of inquisitiveness and leaves you spiritually purified and also, appreciative of the ancient architecture, it is certainly worth it.

Situated some 10-odd kilometres away from the holy city Varanasi, Sarnath in comparison is a much quieter place. And apart from the Buddhist structures, it also had the Institute of Buddhist Studies out here. So as you approach this city after a half hour journey by road, leaving behind the sadhus in saffron, you cannot miss the sight of traditionally dressed Buddhist monks, instantly reminding you the connection of this city with Buddha.

For those who are still unaware, Sarnath was the place where Buddha, after attaining enlightenment in Bodhgaya in Bihar, came and delivered his first sermon.

The landmarks, out up by the state's tourism department and also, a local guide's running commentry, tell you that the famous emperor Ashoka came to Sarnath in around 2nd Century BC and was truly inspired by the fact that this was the place where Buddha's sermons were first heard. He build a stupa here, which is one of the biggest stupas remaining today. Between 3rd century and 11th century, a number of Buddhist structures including stupas and monastries were build here, whose remains still are a wonderful piece of architecture.

Although the entire place is a haven for those who love the ruins of the past, the two main stupas are indeed a work of art. The Chaukhandi Stupa and the Dhamek Stupa are the two whose remains take back you in time.

The former is said to be the first stupa here and was built by Ashoka. The second, Dhamek Stupa, is around 44 metres high and is made from the stone-brick combination.

What makes this one different from the former is the exquisite stucco work reflective of the Maurya period.

The other remains out here are said to be a part of the monastry which was built here to spread the teachings of Buddha.

And what attracts one towards these remains is the statues of Buddha in his famous `Padmasana' (lotus asana) which have been created by artisans on the walls of the buildings. At a few places, one can also see a few scenes from the life of Buddha, but time has taken its toll over these statues.

Apart from the entire campus, the other places where one can visit in this quant little place is the the Mulgandha Kuti Vihar. One of the modern buildings out here, this temple has the paintings and frescos by Japan's famous painter Kotesu.

The ruins of the old temple can still be seen in the background. Then, one can also visit the Sarnath museum where relics from the past, pieces excavated from the ruins and also, the country national emblem three faced lion can be seen.